by Linda Krecker
(Mistress Rhianwen o Enfys Disberod, OL, OP)
Illustrations by Marcus Findlay-Arthur
© copyright 2000, Designing Art Studio |
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| | | Introduction Ibegan my research with a number of expectations; that was to documentthe Mongolian dress we in the SCA commonly wear. What follows are myinitial impressions of Mongolian dress.
Ihope this fascinating exploration will provide those who recreateMongolian personas fertile ground from which to enhance and explore thegarments they live, love and fight in.
I felt that there had to be definitive
documentationof what the Mongols wore during their occupation of most of the world.What I found supprised me in the variety and colors of what they wore.How these clothing was influenced by the people who's land theyoccupied and what might have happened to them after they left.
In this paper I will try to show what was worn by the various people as they rode, warred and officiated those they conquered.
Ghengis Khan's ambition was far-reaching and persuasive.
Within his lifetime he conquered, invaded and traded with peoples as far reaching as China, Korea, India, Persia and Moscow.
Hisfour sons continued his path of conquest into Southern China and Eastof Persian. The Mongolia Horde continued to live, propagate andassimilate the lives, culture and dress of the people they conqueredover the next 100 years.
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| | | Clothing of the pre-Ghengis era Mongols Wintersand summers in Mongolia were harsh. Even in the summer, they dressed inlayers. This allowed for levels of comfort in all sorts of weather. Theprimary material for clothing was fur and felt. The felt was thick woolfrom sheep, yaks and camels. The Mongols traded fur and wool forvarious items including silk. It is believed that their inner clothingwas made of silk, while outer garments were either silk, felt or fur.
Outercoats were made of fur or silks lined in fur. Documentation suggeststhat Ghengis Khan had required all solders to wear silk undershirts toprotect against arrows.
The basic pattern of the body garments seem to be unvaried and simple.
The most basic item of the Mongolian dress is a robe.
The robe has a distinctive cross over closure.
The under garment would typically be of white silk.
Layered on this garment would be an “over” robe made of silk, felt or fur.
The choice of fabric would be influenced by location and activity.
Inthe winter they would additionally wear an over coat that, unlike therobe, would close down the center front and typically be made of fur orsilk and fur.
Documentation indicates that women wore a leg covering similar to our modern western chaps.
The utilitarian nature of this garment asserts itself when we recognize the percentage of time the Mongols spent on horseback.
It is my believed that the garment was common to both men and women.
It was most common for the body garments to be belted with either a cloth or leather sash.
Creative and imaginative variations for hats can be found.
GuguGuan was a type of hat approximately two feet high, made of birch andcovered with either red or black silk, and toped with willow branchesand pheasant feathers.
The prowess of a legendary warrior woman made this a revered style.
Typically Mongolian men would wear a fur line nap length hood.
Summertime hats were of straw.
And red bandana-like head coverings were additionally common.
A double brimmed folded hat or single brimmed cap of fur can also be documented.
Men and women can also be found to be wearing a type of scull cap made of fur and patterned fabric.
Every day women's robe
Every day men's robe
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| | | Clothing of the Chinese occupation (Yuan Dynasty) TheMongols during their Chinese occupation where the aristocracy and woreexpensive and uncommon clothing, different then that of the Chinesecommoner.
Clothingof court officials and their families were subject to regulation.Regulation dictated robe colors and designs for those who had businessin court.
I believe that the gold embroidery on the shoulders and knees might have to do with these regulations.
Khubali, Ghenis Khans' son and the first Yuan dynasty Khan, wore Chinese clothing often while on the throne.
Chabi,Khubali's first wife, invented a hat with a brim and a sleeveless overcoat for the Mongol horsemen influenced by Chinese clothing.
Man of the Court
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| | | Clothing of the Persian occupation (Il-Khanates) The Mongols in Persian took their lead from Yuan dynasty directly influenced by gifts from the Yuan Khan.
Muslim assimilation began to influence clothing styles most notable the wearing of the turban.
Evenafter conversion, women still maintained their Mongol manner of beingout in public. The temperature was hotter, clothing documented was ofsilk or cotton and looser in style. Many illustrations of the goldembroidery in court scenes speak that they might have instituted thesame system of levels as the Yuan.
Ultimately,clothing became more and more like that of the local population. Andwomen were less and less prominent in the illustrations of the time. Bythe time of Timerlane they had assimilated into the Muslim culture pastthe point of differentiation.
Woman of the Court
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| | | Clothing of the Russian Occupation (Golden Horde) There seemed to be little change in the dress of the Golden Horde compared to that of the Mongolian homeland. The Mongols were simply an occupying force. More research is needed on this area.
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| | | Return to Mongolia Mongols that were not assimilated into local culture returned to Mongolia.
Influenceby the Qing dynasty is evident, but I have found no evidence toindicate any Ming dynasty influence. Resulting in clothing thatresembled that of the pre-Genghis era mongols.
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| | | Bibliography Brent, Peter; Gengis Khan; McGraw-Hill; New York;1976.
Empire of the Golden Horde; http://kids.infoplease.lycos.com/ce6/history/A0821169.html;
(Oct, 2000).
Kies, Lisa (Sofya la Rus);
Women's Clothing in Kievan Rus; http://www.strangelove.net/~kieser/Russia/KWC.html; (Oct, 2000).
Magocsi, Paul Robert; Ukraine A Historical Atlas; University of Toronto Press; Toronto 1985.
Marshall, Robert; Storm from the East; University of California Press, Berkeley; 1993.
Nicolle, David; The Mongol Warlords; Brockhampton Press, London; 1990.
Rossabi, Morris; Khubilai Khan; University of California Press, Berkeley; 1988.
Xun, Zhou and Chunming, Gao; 5000 Years of Chinese Costumes; China Books; Hong Kong; 1984.
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发表于 2008-11-23 00:35:15
楼主
发表于 2008-11-23 10:58:59
